Promenading Map in Ghent, Chapter Two: Gravensteen

Date
Jun, 26, 2019
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Ghent was a small city suitable for promenading.

Finishing our breakfast in the café, we walked along the Graslei under the comfortable sunshine in the chill Decembre.

If we say Annecy is the pearl of French Alps, then Ghent is a forgotten elder Belgian plutocrat.

Promenading Map in Ghent, Chapter One: MA en IK
(Related articles:How Could You Not Fall In Love With Annecy?Hello Again, Annecy

One of the similarities among the castles over the world is that they always had luxurious royal families and those complicated, dissolute love stories; however, not for Gravensteen, a medieval castle which located in the northern part of the bridge Sint-Michielsbrug.

Instead of calling Gravensteen a castle with a horrifying history background, it’s more like an unwelcome ill-fated suburban Count: overbearing, arrogant and rich.

Belgium is famous for its raining winter, but I was lucky to have a week of gorgeous sunny days during the Christmas break.

Coming to the fork of River Leie, to be honest, my first impression when seeing that cold Gravensteen was that I rather call it as a fort than a castle.

Technically, fortifications were the reason why they built Gravensteen in A.C 918.

I always enjoy travelling with a casual schedule. Although I would search for some history and attractions of my destinations, I wouldn’t plan a strict agenda for what is a must-see attraction.

I prefer strolling down the street with the instinct and spend a few hours listening to a tour.

Once upon a time…》

The medieval fairytales always start with a lovebird who eloped from their own country; but in the history of Granvensteen, this love story and a royal residence only served a tiny part of it.

In the 11th century, the Crusade-castle-inspired Gravensteen build with limestones was a symbol of fortune and status.

Ironically, Gravensteen had never been the most lovable residence among the Counts over the centuries. In the 14th century, the Count of Flanders, Robrecht of Béthune, even prefer to live in an inn nearby!

This was one of the most lively audio guides that I felt like listening to an interesting audiobook.

Hearing the shouting and music describing the cruel war in the background, and the narrator who kept switching his characters with various tones, reminded me of one radio programme broadcasting audiobooks about classical music for children that I used to listen to at 20:00 every day.

The cold and horrifying dungeon》

This was my first time knowing a castle with different types of function.

Gravensteen used to be a wool factory, cotton mill, worker’s accommodation, metal fabrication workshop and mint manufacture. But what made Gravensteen the most famous, was being a court of justice and dungeon.

Though not until the 18th century did the prison sentences were introduced to society, as a high court, there was a need for keeping the criminals and those who were waiting for the interrogation. With the supply and demand (!?), the basements of Gravensteen became prisons.

Think about what we’ve seen on the television of how they made people confess in the past centuries-

torturing with the props, and the governments reserve some of them in the castle until now.

“Look at the corners around this room, those are the trails of the chain that were used to chain up the limbs and neck of the prisoners.”

With the wicked background music, the narrator informed us to look around. “And see those dark stains and the wall and floor? You can imagine how the prisoners were being tortured in the past.”

No thank you, dear narrator, I’d like to pass for imagining this.

To the people in the past, Gravensteen means the abuse of power, feudal society and torture.

After Gravensteen was no longer suitable for modern needs, it became property in the auction. Moreover, some voices argued that they should demolish it since Gravensteen couldn’t meet the safety norms of architecture anymore.

Fortunately, no company had an interest in this project; otherwise, no one could watch the breathtaking view from the top of Gravensteen.

Climbing up the castle and hearing the chimes from the distance, I could view the entire Ghent including Sint-Baafsplein, Het Belfort, Sint-Niklaaskerk and the cityscape all at once.

Everything seemed like a fairy-tale toy house.

Because of the red bricks, limestones and sandstones; plus, the unique triangular and scallop gables on the architectures, Ghent preserved the iconic Flanders style from the 17th century.

An old town that will be forever spirited》

Even though Ghent once waned in the past, the outdoor café and the pedestrians along the river didn’t diminish the energy of this city in the 21st century.

The atmosphere here always reminds us that Ghent was once a second-large commercial and industrial city after Paris a few centuries ago.

Castle of the Counts

Opening hour:10:00~18:00

Location:Sint-Veerleplein 11, 9000 Gent, Belgium

Ticket:https://historischehuizen.stad.gent/en/castle-counts/visit/tickets

February 9, 2019

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